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Fasting is meant to teach a person patience, sacrifice and humility. I didn't fast and I haven't learnt any of those things, but I sure joined in on the feast afterward!
The Islamic holiday of Eid ul-Fitr marks the end of the fasting period that is Ramadan. This was celebrated around the world today by Muslims and non-Muslims alike, as I have learnt. There is a city further north, Ngaoundere, that holds an especially colorful festival to mark the occasion. But mostly, family and friends visit one another after the morning communal prayers, sit and lie on the big carpet to chat and enjoy the feast and company. My very hospitable Muslim colleagues invited agnostic me along with our Catholic maid Nicole, her little one and her boyfriend, and we paid visit to the two households. What a thoroughly enjoyable day with plenty of food, cultural exchange and laughter. They were surprised and delighted that I ate every type of food that was prepared. I love food too much to not give everything a try.
Also, it is only the right thing to do as a guest unless you're honestly allergic to something. Nicole later told me she once invited to her home a friend who brought along a French guy, and she had made a lot of food. Consider the fact that people have little money, then spend most of it buying food and preparing something special to welcome guests for a nice evening. Not like they even eat very funny things in this part of Cameroon; don't the French eat all kinds of stuff, anyway? In any case, he had an arrogant attitude and stuck to a bottle of water. On someone who has little contact with foreigners, he has thereby effectively left a bad, lasting impression. On behalf of THE WEST! For the lose!
West 0 - 2 East. Let's keep score.
Africa, not paradoxically, is where West meets East. I'm not referring to the Cold War, nor am I talking about economic influence; and by 'East', I actually mean the Middle East. Christianity and Islam have long taken over Africa. For the most part, missionaries triumphed over existing beliefs. Whether or not that's so wonderful is open to debate. But before anyone shouts, "It's not very hard! The poor convert more easily" and starts listing the drawbacks, there is one (dis)advantage I'd like to point out: more holidays.
It's good to be diplomatic, so it's good to be agnostic. An atheist, on the other hand, is sure that all religions are wrong. An atheist may also think the world would be much better off if there were no religions at all. And that's just too.. provocative. Because an agnostic can say, "I’m not sure, I don't know. Maybe I need some time and convincing." That way, you can make no enemies, religion-wise. Only friends. Indigenous beliefs continue to exist in Cameroon, but the Christian community is very big. The Muslim one: not small, either. Today being Eid ul-Fitr was a major holiday and no one went to work or school. The country was similarly unproductive on Assumption Day. Nicole is already looking forward to hosting Christmas Dinner. Living here, I will be celebrating Jesus as much as Muhammad. Now, if that isn't diplomatic!
Liang, I have a question: Do you hug trees? I'm asking for a friend, a girl, who is neopagan, likes environmental science, and hugs trees
There is an African proverb that goes, "On his first day, the stranger should open only his eyes and ears, but not his mouth." Because when you find yourself in unknown territory, it is wise to first "look and listen", something our ninth grade history teacher told us to do whenever some imbecile was too loud again and interrupted class. Back then I thought always repeating that simple but annoying phrase should effectively make kids shut up but no, not really. People will always act smart because they think they are. And that, I assume, is something about many foreigners that Africans don't like very much.
My Cameroon pocket guide begins with citing that proverb. I thought it was not too bad, and I therefore tried to put away any preconceptions I had and absorb everything like a sponge. One is bound to be labeled as ignorant if he starts out thinking of all the people here as being the same -they clearly distinguish between people of different tribes-, but with the right attitude, he will enjoy the personable people that most Cameroonians are. Of course it isn't until you travel the remote countryside and ask a local chief for permission to spend the night in their village that it becomes really special. But getting settled in the political capital where so few foreigners come (as opposed to coastal Douala, the country's financial and industrial center) has also been interesting so far. As the country's second largest city it attracts Cameroonians from all provinces and it is the first time I see so many churches and mosques together in one place. I may have my opinion on religion but it is good to see that over here, Christians and Muslims peacefully live side by side and have better things to worry about than looking at each other with suspicion. Better things like food, Samuel Eto'o (football player), taking their kids to school, killing mosquitoes.
Or more reliable electricity and faster internet, in my case. What's new to me but typical of poor countries is that bad infrastructure severely limits your mobility and productivity. I used to think that Italy and, to a lesser extent, England have bad roads but coming here really puts things into perspective. For businesses that can be devastating of course, but foreigners don't all come here to do business. Diplomats don't suffer much from bad infrastructure; some NGOs okay, especially during crises; but tourists no, since the ones who come here probably all have too much time, and the reason why tourists go anywhere is to be away from home. Because at home, things are (too) familiar.
A few days ago, my colleague invited me to his place, to meet his wife and little kids. He told me it would be exciting since they had never seen a white guy before. It must have been the equivalent of the average family man in China returning home with a black man to show to his 5-Year-Old. Their first reaction was priceless: "Ahh! What's wrong with that.. person?!" There are business meetings that my colleague goes to without me so as not to draw too much attention with my white skin. Man..
But in South Africa, the Chinese living there have just recently been officially added to the category of "Blacks". In an attempt to compensate for the harm done to the black community during Apartheid, the government now favors blacks over whites in many things that it controls (messed up). I THINK it was decided it would be wrong to disfavor Chinese along with "Whites" in this context; anyhow, as a result, in South Africa we are now regarded by law as "Blacks". That must be good news for the Chinese entrepreneurs there.*
So, Africans apparently don't recognize yellow as a skin color and I have thus found myself an identity crisis I never knew existed: an ethnic Chinese wondering if he's black or white!
On a side note, that English version of the proverb is at least the translation of a translation and representative of the contents of this blog which aren't double-checked for accuracy, mostly because I'm not a reliable investigative journalist (I'm not a journalist) but also because internet here in Cameroon is just depressingly slow.
_____________________
* West 0 - 1 East
That is the nickname of Cameroon, my new home in the heart of Africa.
miniature because in many aspects, this country can serve as a portrayal of the African continent. From the Pygmy hunter-gatherers of the rain forests in the south, to the nomadic tribesmen of the dry savannas in the north; from the city dwellers in coastal regions with normal and volcanic (black) sand beaches, to the herders in the mountainous regions where, given the mild climate, you may just forget you're still in Africa. More than 280 ethnic and linguistic groups.. There is so much cultural and natural diversity. I look forward to the days the more adventurous of you come here, so we can explore this un-touristy land together. Just recently, I have started to drink palm wine. It takes a lot of getting used to, but you really don't know a place until you have eaten local food and tried their beverages, do you?
Onto more serious subjects after this introductory post. Because this being Africa, there will also be a lot of sad/shocking/dramatic things to write about and discuss. I will try my best not to be a hypocrite or overly cynical. That should be doable because in a place so underdeveloped and poor, I am greeted with warmth and treated with kindness everywhere I go, while rarely spotting any jealousy or bitterness. People do enjoy life a lot and people do find happiness since it does not require a Starbucks around every corner and it does not only derive from the GDP. It seemed remarkable at first. On second thought, I'm just glad that is the case. Making this observation will prompt you to look at many things differently.
P.S. This blog is in response to one person demanding it, and another person accusing me of being secretive and other awful things.
Please leave comments, anonymous or not. They will motivate me to continue. (Else it would seem this is only a place devoted to self-absorption, and that's not the plan:)
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